Ultimate Repair Hub · DIY Guide
iPhone 17e Charge Port Replacement
This is one of the hardest repairs on the iPhone 17e: most of the parts at the bottom of the phone, including the battery, have to come out to reach the USB-C port. Before you start, clean lint out of the port with a wooden toothpick and try another cable and charger.
- Difficulty
- ●●●●●Very difficult
- Time
- 2–3 hours
- Steps
- 12
- Opens from
- Back glass
DIY guide — for informational purposes only. This is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, and repairs are performed at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair provider and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.
Tools
- Pentalobe screwdriver P2
- Tri-point screwdriver Y000
- Phillips screwdriver #000
- 9-volt battery with alligator leads
- Heat pad, iOpener or heat gun on low
- Suction cup and thin plastic opening picks
- Blunt tweezers
- Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers
- Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free wipes
- A USB-C cable (for lining up the new port)
- Safety glasses, and a metal can of sand for the old battery
Parts
- iPhone 17e USB-C port assembly
- New iPhone 17e battery (recommended once the battery is removed)
- Microphone adhesive
- Display or back glass adhesive
Take it apart
Power off and remove the bottom screws
Back up and power the phone off. Remove the two pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the glass is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so it doesn’t flake and the suction cup can grip.
Bottom edge. One screw on each side of the port. Soften the adhesive
Warm the edges of the back glass evenly for 2–3 minutes. The glass should feel hot but still comfortable to hold.
Cut the back glass adhesive
Lift near the bottom edge with a suction cup just enough for a hairline gap, slide a pick in and cut up both long sides, stopping at the antenna lines. Pull the glass slightly toward you to free the hooks along the top, then cut across the top.
Don’t lift the bottom edge more than about 5°; the cables there are short.
Cut both long sides first, then slide the glass down slightly and cut the top. Open the back glass like a book
The back glass stays attached by a cable along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Support it so the cable isn’t holding its weight, and cover the camera lenses to keep dust off.
Disconnect and remove the back
Remove the 7 tri-point screws from the three connector covers, the bottom speaker and the main microphone. Unplug the battery cable first, then the back glass cable and the two TrueDepth camera cables. Set the back glass aside.
Remove the front camera and battery
Lift out the TrueDepth camera, then release and remove the battery with the 9-volt method from our battery guide.
Clear the bottom of the phone
Remove the 13 Phillips screws from the top speaker, camera, Taptic Engine and bottom speaker. Lift out the bottom speaker and the Taptic Engine cover. Unplug the seven cables along the logic board and the Taptic Engine cable.
Remove the remaining parts
Remove the 8 screws, then lift out the top speaker and the Taptic Engine. Unplug and remove the main microphone. Remove 1 more screw.
Remove the SIM assembly
Pull the SIM tray, lift the logic board slightly and ease out the SIM assembly with its standin still attached.
Remove the USB-C port
Remove the 5 tri-point screws and the 2 long Phillips screws beside the port, keeping the driver low. Peel the port cable off the frame and lift the port out.
Replace the port
Fit the new port
Clean old adhesive from the frame. Plug a USB-C cable into the port from the outside (not connected to power), set the new port in place and press it onto the cable so it lines up with the opening. Press the cable onto its adhesive spots and reinstall the port screws, then remove the cable.
Rebuild and test
Reinstall everything in reverse order, using a new battery, fresh microphone adhesive and fresh back glass adhesive. Test wired charging, data to a computer, the bottom speaker, microphones and vibration.
Not charging? Let us look first.
Most iPhone 17e charging problems are lint or a bad cable. We’ll test it free at our Tustin store and replace the port the same day if needed.
Facts checked against Apple’s iPhone 17e repair manual. These guides are for informational purposes and repairs are done at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair shop and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.