Ultimate Repair Hub · DIY Guide
iPhone 17 Pro Charge Port Replacement
This is one of the hardest repairs on the iPhone 17 Pro: most of the parts at the bottom of the phone, including the battery, have to come out to reach the USB-C port. Before you start, clean lint out of the port with a wooden toothpick and try another cable and charger.
- Difficulty
- ●●●●●Very difficult
- Time
- 2–3 hours
- Steps
- 11
- Opens from
- Front (screen)
DIY guide — for informational purposes only. This is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, and repairs are performed at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair provider and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.
Tools
- Pentalobe screwdriver P2
- Tri-point screwdriver Y000
- Phillips screwdriver #000
- Torx Plus 4IP screwdriver 4IP (battery plate screws)
- Heat pad, iOpener or heat gun on low
- Suction cup and thin plastic opening picks
- Blunt tweezers
- Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers
- Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free wipes
- A USB-C cable (for lining up the new port)
- Safety glasses, and a metal can of sand for the old battery
Parts
- iPhone 17 Pro USB-C port assembly
- New iPhone 17 Pro battery (recommended once the battery is removed)
- Microphone adhesive
- Display or back glass adhesive
Take it apart
Power off and remove the bottom screws
Back up and power the phone off. Remove the two pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the glass is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so it doesn’t flake and the suction cup can grip.
Bottom edge. One screw on each side of the port. Soften the adhesive
Warm the edges of the screen evenly for 2–3 minutes. The glass should feel hot but still comfortable to hold.
Cut the sides, then the top
Lift near the bottom edge with a suction cup and cut along the left and right sides, stopping at the antenna lines. Use a fresh, sharp pick or blade.
Pull the display slightly toward the bottom of the phone to unhook the clips along the top, then cut across the top and around the corners. Hold the display only by its edges and don’t press on the back of the panel.
Cut both long sides first, then slide the screen down slightly and cut the top. Open the display like a book
The display stays attached by short cables along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Open it and support it so the cables aren’t holding its weight.
Disconnect the battery, then the display
On this model the battery connector is on the screen side. Remove the 2 Phillips screws, one from the battery connector cover and one from the display connector cover, and lift both covers off. Unplug the battery cable first, then the display and light sensor cables.
Disconnect the battery, then the display1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Remove the battery
Remove the 14 Torx Plus 4IP screws from the battery plate and lift the battery out (see our battery guide).
Remove the battery1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Remove the speaker, Taptic Engine and microphone
Separate the Taptic Engine battery shim from the bottom speaker with a spudger and lift the speaker out without bending its grounding springs. Fold the USB-C port cable back 90° to reach the screws: remove 2 from the Taptic Engine and 1 from the main microphone. Tilt up the Taptic Engine, unplug it and lift it out.
Remove the 1 Phillips screw from the main microphone, unplug its cable, break the adhesive under it and lift it out.
Unscrew the USB-C port
Remove the 10 Phillips screws holding the port. Four of them are on the side walls of the frame; keep the driver as parallel to the wall as you can so you don’t strip them. Then remove the 1 tri-point screw from the port.
Remove the USB-C port
Unplug the two stacked port cables. Ease the port away from the frame, separate the small microphone attached to it from the side wall, break the adhesive and lift the port out.
Replace the port
Fit the new port
Clean old adhesive from the frame. Plug a USB-C cable into the port from the outside (not connected to power), set the new port in place and press it onto the cable so it lines up with the opening. Press the cable onto its adhesive spots and reinstall the port screws, then remove the cable.
Rebuild and test
Reinstall everything in reverse order, using a new battery, fresh microphone adhesive and fresh display adhesive. Test wired charging, data to a computer, the bottom speaker, microphones and vibration.
Not charging? Let us look first.
Most iPhone 17 Pro charging problems are lint or a bad cable. We’ll test it free at our Tustin store and replace the port the same day if needed.
Facts checked against Apple’s iPhone 17 Pro repair manual. These guides are for informational purposes and repairs are done at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair shop and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.
