iPhone 16 Charge Port Replacement

Power off and remove the bottom screws

Power the phone off and remove the two P2 pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the back glass is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so glass doesn’t flake off and the suction cup can grip.

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Heat and cut the back glass adhesive

Warm the edges of the back glass evenly for 2–3 minutes. Lift near the bottom edge with a suction cup just enough for a hairline gap, slide a pick in and cut up both long sides, stopping where you reach the antenna lines.

Slide the glass a millimeter or two toward the bottom of the phone to release the clips along the top, then run a pick across the top edge. Stay clear of the speaker grille. Don’t lift the bottom edge more than about 5°; the cables there are short.

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Open the back glass like a book

The back glass stays attached by a cable along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Open it and support it so the cable isn’t holding its weight. The back glass carries the MagSafe and wireless charging parts, so it is still attached by a cable. Cover the camera lenses with tape if you can, to keep dust off them.

Disconnect the battery first

Remove the one cowling held by 2 tri-point screws over the connectors and set the screws aside in order. Unplug the battery cable first, then the back glass cable. The battery cable has strong adhesive under it, so lift it gently rather than yanking it.

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Remove the display

Follow our screen guide for this model to remove the display. It has to come off because the port’s cable runs under parts reached from both sides.

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Remove the battery

Release and remove the battery as described in our battery guide (9-volt method). Apple recommends installing a new battery rather than reusing one that has been removed.

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Remove the Taptic Engine

Remove the 2 Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine connector cover and 2 Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine. Lift the cover off, unplug the Taptic Engine cable and lift it out. Don’t bend the grounding spring on the cover.

Remove the bottom speaker

Remove the 4 Phillips screws and 1 tri-point screw from the bottom speaker and lift it out. Don’t bend the grounding spring on its edge.

Remove the main microphone

Remove the 2 screws, 1 Phillips screw and 1 tri-point screw, then unplug the microphone cable. The microphone is stuck down with strong adhesive; pull it toward the top of the phone until it releases. You’ll need fresh microphone adhesive on reassembly.

Release the SIM assembly

Unplug the three cables from the logic board near the bottom. Remove 1 tri-point screw and 1 Phillips screw from the logic board, and don’t bend the cables back more than 90°. Lift out the SIM assembly spacer.

Remove the 3 screws from the SIM assembly, pull the SIM tray, and lift the SIM assembly out. One end of it (Apple calls it the standin) is stuck to the port cable; separate it gently with a spudger so it stays attached to the SIM assembly.

Unscrew the USB-C port

Remove 1 screw from the frame, then 3 tri-point screws and 1 Phillips screw from the port. Finally remove the 2 Phillips screws beside the port opening, keeping the driver low so you don’t strip them.

Remove the port

Lift the end of the port cable and peel it off the frame, then lift the USB-C port out. A small microphone (Apple calls it microphone 4) is attached to the port cable.

Fit the new port

Clean all old adhesive from the frame and the port opening, and check that the two grounding clips are still in place (their springs face the screen side). Peel every liner off the new port and note where the adhesive spots are.

Plug a USB-C cable into the port from the outside (not connected to power), set the new port in place and press it onto the cable so it lines up with the opening. Line up the screw holes and press the port cable onto the frame over its adhesive spots. Reinstall the 2 screws beside the opening at a low angle, then remove the cable. Press the small microphone 4 into its little recess next to the speaker seal, then reinstall the remaining port screws.

Refit the SIM assembly

Make sure the standin is still attached to the SIM assembly; if it stayed in the frame or went missing, stop and bring the phone to a shop. Set the SIM assembly back with the SIM tray in for alignment, reinstall its screws and the spacer, and reconnect the logic board cables.

Rebuild in reverse

Reinstall the parts you removed in reverse order. Lay fresh adhesive under the main microphone and press it for about 15 seconds before refitting the microphone. Fit a new battery rather than the old one.

Close up and test

Reconnect the back glass cable, then the battery cable, refit the covers and seal the back and the display with fresh adhesive. Test wired charging, data to a computer, the bottom speaker, both microphones (record a voice memo and make a call) and vibration.