iPhone 16 Battery Replacement

Power off and remove the bottom screws

Power the phone off and remove the two P2 pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the back glass is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so glass doesn’t flake off and the suction cup can grip.

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Heat and cut the back glass adhesive

Warm the edges of the back glass evenly for 2–3 minutes. Lift near the bottom edge with a suction cup just enough for a hairline gap, slide a pick in and cut up both long sides, stopping where you reach the antenna lines.

Slide the glass a millimeter or two toward the bottom of the phone to release the clips along the top, then run a pick across the top edge. Stay clear of the speaker grille. Don’t lift the bottom edge more than about 5°; the cables there are short.

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Open the back glass like a book

The back glass stays attached by a cable along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Open it and support it so the cable isn’t holding its weight. The back glass carries the MagSafe and wireless charging parts, so it is still attached by a cable. Cover the camera lenses with tape if you can, to keep dust off them.

Disconnect the battery first

Remove the one cowling held by 2 tri-point screws over the connectors and set the screws aside in order. Unplug the battery cable first, then the back glass cable. The battery cable has strong adhesive under it, so lift it gently rather than yanking it.

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Lift the silver adhesive tab

Find the silver tab on the battery and peel it up with tweezers until it stands at about 45°. This tab is the electrical contact for the battery adhesive.

Connect the 9-volt and hold for 90 seconds

Clip the red (+) lead to the silver tab and the black (−) lead to the lower-right grounding screw on the bottom speaker. Hold the connection steady for 1 minute 30 seconds.

If a clip slips off, start the 90 seconds over. Polarity matters: reversed leads still loosen the battery but leave the sticky residue on the frame. A bench supply set higher, up to 30 V, works faster, and older phones can take longer.

Lift the battery out

Remove the clips and lift the battery with a suction cup or the flat end of a spudger. It should come up with almost no force. If it resists, repeat the 90-second cycle. Never bend or pry the cell. Put the old battery straight into a metal can of sand.

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Clean the battery bay

The leftover adhesive is clear and easy to miss. Wipe the bay with isopropyl alcohol 5 to 10 times until it’s no longer tacky. Slight discoloration of the metal afterward is normal.

Seat the new battery

Apply the adhesive that came with your new battery, or peel its liner if it’s pre-applied. Line up the right edge with the logic board and the bottom edge with the bottom speaker, lower it in, and press firmly and evenly across the whole battery in several passes.

Reconnect and refit the cover

Connect the back glass cable first, then the battery cable. Refit the connector cover and reinstall the tri-point screws in the same positions they came from.

Close and seal the back

Lay down fresh back glass adhesive, check for loose screws (the magnets in the back glass tend to grab them), then close the glass and clamp it for several minutes. Reinstall the two P2 screws. A poorly seated back can make wireless charging slow or unreliable.

Test and finish

Gently shake the phone. If anything rattles or the battery feels loose, reopen it. New batteries ship nearly empty, so charge for a few minutes before powering on.

An aftermarket battery, including ours, shows as an unknown part under Settings › General › About › Parts & Service History. That’s expected. If you install a genuine Apple battery, run Repair Assistant from that same menu.