Ultimate Repair Hub · DIY Guide
iPhone 16 Pro Charge Port Replacement
On the iPhone 16 Pro the USB-C port comes out through the back, but the camera, Taptic Engine, bottom speaker, battery and main microphone all have to come out first. Before you start, make sure it’s really the port: clean lint out with a wooden toothpick and try a different cable and charger.
- Difficulty
- ●●●●○Difficult
- Time
- 90–120 min
- Steps
- 14
- Opens from
- Back glass
DIY guide — for informational purposes only. This is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, and repairs are performed at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair provider and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.
Tools
- Pentalobe screwdriver P2
- Tri-point screwdriver Y000
- Phillips screwdriver #000
- Heat pad, iOpener or heat gun on low
- Suction cup and thin plastic opening picks
- Blunt tweezers
- Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers
- Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free wipes
- A USB-C cable (for lining up the new port)
- Safety glasses, and a metal can of sand for the old battery
Parts
- iPhone 16 Pro USB-C port assembly
- New iPhone 16 Pro battery (recommended once the battery has been removed)
- Main microphone adhesive
- Back glass adhesive
Open the back
Power off and remove the bottom screws
Power the phone off and remove the two P2 pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the back glass is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so glass doesn’t flake off and the suction cup can grip.
Power off and remove the bottom screws1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Heat and cut the back glass adhesive
Warm the edges of the back glass evenly for 2–3 minutes. Lift near the bottom edge with a suction cup just enough for a hairline gap, slide a pick in and cut up both long sides, stopping where you reach the antenna lines.
Slide the glass a millimeter or two toward the bottom of the phone to release the clips along the top, then run a pick across the top edge. Stay clear of the speaker grille. Don’t lift the bottom edge more than about 5°; the cables there are short.
Cut both long sides first, then slide the glass down slightly and cut the top. Open the back glass like a book
The back glass stays attached by a cable along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Open it and support it so the cable isn’t holding its weight. The back glass carries the MagSafe and wireless charging parts, so it is still attached by a cable. Cover the camera lenses with tape if you can, to keep dust off them.
Disconnect the battery first
Remove the two cowlings held by 7 tri-point screws over the connectors and set the screws aside in order. Unplug the battery cable first, then the back glass cable. The battery cable has strong adhesive under it, so lift it gently rather than yanking it.
Disconnect the battery first1 photo · Tap image to enlarge
Clear the way
Remove the rear camera
Cover the lenses, then remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the rear camera and lift its 3 cables off their connectors. Lift the camera out by its body, never by the cables.
Free the Taptic Engine
Remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine connector cover and lift the cover off. Remove the 1 tri-point screw from the charge port cable.
Unplug the charge port cable (top right), then the Taptic Engine cable and the microphone cable, which both sit on top of the main microphone. Note how those two cables line up so they go back the same way.
Fold the charge port cable to the left to reveal one more Phillips screw; there is adhesive under that cable, so peel it slowly. Remove that screw, lift the Taptic Engine away from the battery shim, and peel its cable off the adhesive on the microphone.
Free the Taptic Engine1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Remove the bottom speaker
Remove the 3 Phillips screws and 1 tri-point screw from the bottom speaker and lift it out. The thin battery shim stays attached to the speaker. Don’t bend the small grounding spring on its edge.
Remove the bottom speaker1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Remove the battery
Pull the three stretch-release strips from under the battery as described in our battery guide, then lift the battery out. Apple recommends installing a new battery rather than reusing one that has been removed.
Remove the main microphone
Remove the 2 screws and 1 tri-point screw from the main microphone. It’s held by strong adhesive; pull it toward the top of the phone until it lets go.
Replace the port
Unscrew the USB-C port
Remove the 2 Phillips screws on either side of the USB-C port. Keep the driver at a low angle so you don’t strip them, and stay off the logic board.
Unscrew the USB-C port3 photos · Tap image to enlarge Remove the port
Gently loosen the adhesive between the port and the frame, then lift the USB-C port out.
Remove the port1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Fit the new port
Clean the old adhesive from the frame with tweezers and alcohol and make sure the grounding clips aren’t bent. Peel the liner off the new port and set it in place.
Plug a USB-C cable into the port from the outside (not connected to power) and press the port onto the cable so it lines up with the opening. Press it down to stick the adhesive, reinstall the 2 Phillips screws at a low angle, then remove the cable.
Fit the new port1 photo · Tap image to enlarge
Reassembly
Rebuild in reverse
Reinstall the parts you removed in reverse order. Lay fresh adhesive under the main microphone and press it for about 15 seconds before refitting the microphone. Fit a new battery rather than the old one.
Close up and test
Reconnect the back glass cable, then the battery cable, refit the covers and seal the back with fresh adhesive. Test wired charging, data to a computer, the bottom speaker, both microphones (record a voice memo and make a call) and vibration.
Not charging? Let us look first.
Most iPhone 16 Pro charging problems are lint or a bad cable. We’ll test it free at our Tustin store, and replace the port the same day if it’s really the port.
Facts checked against Apple’s iPhone 16 Pro repair manual. These guides are for informational purposes and repairs are done at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair shop and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.