Ultimate Repair Hub · DIY Guide

iPhone 16 Pro Max Charge Port Replacement

On the iPhone 16 Pro Max the USB-C port comes out through the back, but the camera, Taptic Engine, bottom speaker, battery and main microphone all have to come out first. Before you start, make sure it’s really the port: clean lint out with a wooden toothpick and try a different cable and charger.

Difficulty
●●●●○Difficult
Time
90–120 min
Steps
14
Opens from
Back glass

DIY guide — for informational purposes only. This is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, and repairs are performed at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair provider and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.

Tools

  • Pentalobe screwdriver P2
  • Tri-point screwdriver Y000
  • Phillips screwdriver #000
  • Heat pad, iOpener or heat gun on low
  • Suction cup and thin plastic opening picks
  • Blunt tweezers
  • Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers
  • Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free wipes
  • A USB-C cable (for lining up the new port)
  • Safety glasses, and a metal can of sand for the old battery

Parts

  • iPhone 16 Pro Max USB-C port assembly
  • New iPhone 16 Pro Max battery (recommended once the battery has been removed)
  • Main microphone adhesive
  • Back glass adhesive
Advanced repair. This repair means removing and reinstalling the battery and many small screws of different lengths. Keep every screw in order on a magnetic mat. A long screw in the wrong hole can damage the logic board.
Before you start: run the battery down below 25%. Less charge means much less stored energy if the cell is damaged. If the battery is swollen, dented or punctured at any point, stop and bring the phone to a shop.

Open the back

  1. Power off and remove the bottom screws

    Power the phone off and remove the two P2 pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the back glass is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so glass doesn’t flake off and the suction cup can grip.

  2. Heat and cut the back glass adhesive

    Warm the edges of the back glass evenly for 2–3 minutes. Lift near the bottom edge with a suction cup just enough for a hairline gap, slide a pick in and cut up both long sides, stopping where you reach the antenna lines.

    Slide the glass a millimeter or two toward the bottom of the phone to release the clips along the top, then run a pick across the top edge. Stay clear of the speaker grille. Don’t lift the bottom edge more than about 5°; the cables there are short.

    slide 1–2 mm bottom: lift 5° max, no cutting here Cut path Keep picks awayfrom the camera
    Cut both long sides first, then slide the glass down slightly and cut the top.
  3. Open the back glass like a book

    The back glass stays attached by a cable along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Open it and support it so the cable isn’t holding its weight. The back glass carries the MagSafe and wireless charging parts, so it is still attached by a cable. Cover the camera lenses with tape if you can, to keep dust off them.

  4. Disconnect the battery first

    Remove the two cowlings held by 7 tri-point screws over the connectors and set the screws aside in order. Unplug the battery cable first, then the back glass cable. The battery cable has strong adhesive under it, so lift it gently rather than yanking it.

Clear the way

  1. Remove the rear camera

    Cover the lenses, then remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the rear camera and lift its 3 cables off their connectors. Lift the camera out by its body, never by the cables.

  2. Free the Taptic Engine

    Remove the 1 tri-point screw from the charge port cable, then the 3 Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine connector cover and 1 Phillips screw from the Taptic Engine. Lift the cover off.

    Unplug the charge port cable from the logic board (top), then the microphone cable (right) and the Taptic Engine cable (left) that sit on top of the main microphone. Note how they line up.

    Fold the charge port cable to the left to reach one more Phillips screw; there is adhesive under it, so peel slowly. Remove that screw, lift the Taptic Engine off the battery shim, and peel its cable off the microphone adhesive.

  3. Remove the bottom speaker

    Remove the 2 Phillips screws, 1 tri-point screw and 1 screw from the bottom speaker and lift it out. The battery shim stays attached to the speaker. Don’t bend the grounding spring on its edge.

  4. Remove the battery

    Pull the three stretch-release strips from under the battery as described in our battery guide, then lift the battery out. Apple recommends installing a new battery rather than reusing one that has been removed.

  5. Remove the main microphone

    Remove the 2 screws and 1 tri-point screw from the main microphone. It’s held by strong adhesive; pull it toward the top of the phone until it lets go.

Replace the port

  1. Unscrew the USB-C port

    Remove the 2 Phillips screws on either side of the USB-C port. Keep the driver at a low angle so you don’t strip them, and stay off the logic board.

  2. Remove the port

    Gently loosen the adhesive between the port and the frame, then lift the USB-C port out.

  3. Fit the new port

    Clean the old adhesive from the frame with tweezers and alcohol and make sure the grounding clips aren’t bent. Peel the liner off the new port and set it in place.

    Plug a USB-C cable into the port from the outside (not connected to power) and press the port onto the cable so it lines up with the opening. Press it down to stick the adhesive, reinstall the 2 Phillips screws at a low angle, then remove the cable.

Reassembly

  1. Rebuild in reverse

    Reinstall the parts you removed in reverse order. Lay fresh adhesive under the main microphone and press it for about 15 seconds before refitting the microphone. Fit a new battery rather than the old one.

  2. Close up and test

    Reconnect the back glass cable, then the battery cable, refit the covers and seal the back with fresh adhesive. Test wired charging, data to a computer, the bottom speaker, both microphones (record a voice memo and make a call) and vibration.

Not charging? Let us look first.

Most iPhone 16 Pro Max charging problems are lint or a bad cable. We’ll test it free at our Tustin store, and replace the port the same day if it’s really the port.

Facts checked against Apple’s iPhone 16 Pro Max repair manual. These guides are for informational purposes and repairs are done at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair shop and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.