Ultimate Repair Hub · DIY Guide
iPhone 16 Plus Screen Replacement
This guide covers the iPhone 16 Plus only; other models use different displays and layouts. We sell two screen grades. The Incell LCD is the lowest-cost option: it works with Face ID and touch, but it is a little dimmer, with less contrast, and uses more battery than an OLED. The soft OLED is the closer match to the original.
- Difficulty
- ●●●○○Moderate
- Time
- 45–75 min
- Steps
- 13
- Opens from
- Front
DIY guide — for informational purposes only. This is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, and repairs are performed at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair provider and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.
Tools
- Pentalobe screwdriver P2
- Tri-point screwdriver Y000
- Heat pad, iOpener or heat gun on low
- Suction cup and thin plastic opening picks
- Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers
- Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free wipes
- Clamps or a screen press
Parts
- iPhone 16 Plus screen with frame, Incell LCD or soft OLED (pre-cut display adhesive included)
- Optional: 2 new bottom pentalobe screws if yours are stripped
Removal
Back up and power off
Back up the phone to iCloud or a computer, then power it off. If the screen is cracked, cover it with packing tape so glass doesn’t flake off and the suction cup has something to grip.
Remove the two bottom screws
Take out the two P2 pentalobe screws on either side of the USB-C port. If the heads are worn, use new screws when you close up.
Bottom edge. One screw on each side of the port. Soften the adhesive
Warm the edges of the screen evenly for 2–3 minutes. The glass should feel hot but still comfortable to hold. Too little heat and the screen won’t release; too much can damage the OLED panel.
Cut the adhesive around the sides and top
Put the suction cup near the bottom edge and pull up just enough to open a hairline gap. Slide a pick in and cut up each long side. Keep the pick shallow, a few millimeters at most, so you don’t catch the cables or the Face ID sensors.
Don’t lift the bottom of the screen more than about 5°. The cables are short and tear easily at this stage.
To free the top edge, nudge the display a millimeter or two toward the bottom of the phone. That releases the top clips so you can cut across the top. Go slowly near the earpiece and front camera.
Cut both long sides first, then slide the screen down slightly and cut the top. Open the display like a book
The display stays attached by short cables along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge and open it like a book. Open it to about 90° and lean it on something sturdy so the cables aren’t holding its weight. If it resists, a clip is still engaged; recheck the top edge instead of forcing it.
Open the display like a book1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Remove the two connector covers
Two small metal covers protect the display connectors. Remove one Y000 tri-point screw from the display connector cover and one from the light sensor connector cover, then lift both covers off. Keep the two screws separate.
Remove the two connector covers1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Disconnect and remove the display
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift each connector straight up off its socket, without prying against nearby board parts. Then lift the display away.
Disconnect and remove the display2 photos · Tap image to enlarge
Reassembly
Clean the frame
Peel the old adhesive off the frame with tweezers, pulling at a low angle, then wipe away what’s left with isopropyl alcohol. Only clean the outer edges of the display. Alcohol on the screen surface or the back of the panel can cause image problems.
Check the replacement and remove the light-sensor bracket1 photo · Tap image to enlarge Inspect clips, springs and grille
Check that the display clips stand straight up and the small gold grounding springs near the top aren’t bent. Make sure the earpiece grille is intact. Bent springs cause touch and Face ID problems later.
Lay down the new adhesive
Peel the protective films from the new screen. Line the adhesive up with the frame using the camera cutouts at the top as your guide, pull the bottom liner out while pressing it down, then run a spudger around the whole edge two or three times. Leave the top liner on until the display is connected.
Connect the new display
Hold the new display beside the phone in the open position. Press each cable onto its socket evenly along its length until it seats. Refit both covers with their Y000 screws, snug but not forced.
Power on briefly to check picture and touch before you seal it, then power off again.
Remove the liners and close
Peel the remaining adhesive liners, taking care where they pass under the cables. Check inside for loose screws, which can puncture the battery. Lower the display, press all four corners at once, then work along the edges until it clicks flush. Clamp or press it for several minutes.
Reinstall the bottom screws and test
Reinstall the two P2 screws while pressing lightly near the port. Then check touch across the whole screen, Face ID, auto-brightness, True Tone, and that the screen turns off when you hold it to your ear during a call.
Aftermarket screens, including ours, show as an unknown part under Settings › General › About › Parts & Service History. That’s normal. If you install a genuine Apple display, run Repair Assistant from that same menu to finish calibration.
Rather not open your phone?
We replace iPhone 16 Plus screens same day at our Tustin shop, with a warranty on parts and labor.
Facts checked against Apple’s iPhone 16 Plus repair manual. These guides are for informational purposes and repairs are done at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair shop and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.