Ultimate Repair Hub · DIY Guide

iPhone 11 Pro Max Screen Replacement

This guide covers the iPhone 11 Pro Max only. We sell two screen grades. The Incell LCD is the lowest-cost option: touch and Face ID work, but it is a little dimmer, with less contrast, and uses more battery than an OLED. The soft OLED is the closer match to the original.

Difficulty
●●●○○Moderate
Time
60–90 min
Steps
12
Opens from
Front

DIY guide — for informational purposes only. This is not a substitute for professional diagnosis, and repairs are performed at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair provider and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.

Tools

  • Pentalobe screwdriver P2
  • Phillips screwdriver #000
  • Tri-point screwdriver Y000
  • Heat pad, iOpener or heat gun on low
  • Suction cup and thin plastic opening picks
  • Nylon spudger and ESD-safe tweezers
  • Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lint-free wipes
  • Clamps or a screen press

Parts

  • iPhone 11 Pro Max screen, Incell LCD or soft OLED (pre-cut display adhesive included)
Disconnect the battery before anything else. As soon as the screen opens, unplug the battery. A live phone can short the new screen or the logic board when you plug cables in.
Protect Face ID. The front sensor cable you move to the new screen is part of Face ID. Tear it and Face ID is gone for good.

Removal

  1. Power off and remove the bottom screws

    Back up and power the phone off. Remove the two P2 pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port. If the screen is cracked, cover it with packing tape first so glass doesn’t flake and the suction cup can grip.

    Lightning P2 pentalobeP2 pentalobe speakermicrophone
    Bottom edge. One screw on each side of the port.
  2. Soften the adhesive

    Warm the edges of the screen evenly for 2–3 minutes. The glass should feel hot but still comfortable to hold.

  3. Cut the adhesive around the sides and top

    Put the suction cup near the bottom edge and lift just enough for a hairline gap. Slide a pick in and cut along both long sides. Keep the pick shallow, a few millimeters at most, so you don’t catch the display cables or the front sensors.

    The top edge is held by plastic clips, so don’t pry it. Slide the display a millimeter or two toward the bottom of the phone to release the clips, then cut across the top. Don’t lift the bottom edge more than about 5°.

    slide 1–2 mm bottom: lift 5° max, no cutting here Cut path Go slow nearFace ID area
    Cut both long sides first, then slide the screen down slightly and cut the top.
  4. Open the display like a book

    The display stays attached by short cables along one long edge, and that edge acts as the hinge. Lift the free edge, open it to about 90° and lean it on something sturdy so the cables aren’t holding its weight.

  5. Disconnect the battery, then the display

    Remove the screws from the bracket over the battery connector and lift it off, then remove the screws from the bracket over the display connectors. Most of these are Y000 tri-point screws; keep them in order.

    Unplug the battery cable first, then the display and touch cables, then the earpiece and front sensor cable.

    logic board, under the connector cover 1 2 BatteryDisplay unplug 1 then 2 · reconnect 2 then 1
    Battery off first and back on last, so the phone stays dead while cables are moving. Schematic, not to scale.
  6. Remove the display

    Lift the display away and lay it face down on a clean, soft surface.

Move parts to the new screen

  1. Move the earpiece and front sensor cable

    On the back of the old display, remove the screws holding the earpiece speaker and lift it out. Warm the top of the display slightly, then peel up the thin front sensor cable that sits under it.

    This cable carries the proximity sensor, the ambient light sensor and part of the Face ID system. If it tears or creases, Face ID stops working and Apple’s parts can’t be swapped from another phone, so go slowly. Move the cable and the speaker to the same spots on the new screen.

  2. Check the back plate

    Move any metal plate or bracket that’s on the old screen but missing from the new one, using the same screws.

Reassembly

  1. Clean the frame

    Peel the old adhesive off the frame with tweezers, pulling at a low angle, then wipe away what’s left with isopropyl alcohol. Only clean the outer edges of the display.

  2. Lay down the new adhesive

    Peel the films from the new screen. Line the adhesive up with the frame, pull the bottom liner while pressing it down, and run a spudger around the edge two or three times.

  3. Connect the new display

    Hold the new display beside the phone in the open position. Connect the front sensor and earpiece cable, then the display cables, and the battery last. Refit the brackets and their screws in the same holes they came from.

    Power on briefly to check picture and touch before you seal it, then power off again.

  4. Close, press and test

    Peel the remaining liners, check for loose screws, lower the display and press all four corners at once, then along the edges until it clicks flush. Clamp it for several minutes and reinstall the two bottom screws.

    Test touch across the whole screen, Face ID, the front camera, the earpiece and that the screen turns off when you hold it to your ear during a call. True Tone stays off on a new screen unless the original screen’s data is copied over with a screen programmer, and some models show a one-time notice that the display can’t be verified. Both are normal for any non-Apple screen.

Rather not open your phone?

We replace iPhone 11 Pro Max screens same day at our Tustin shop, with a warranty on parts and labor.

Written by our Tustin repair techs. These guides are for informational purposes and repairs are done at your own risk. Ultimate Wireless Solutions is an independent repair shop and is not affiliated with Apple Inc.